London Chefs on How to Cook Potatoes During the Lockdown This Weekend - Eater London

Hello regular readers of 5 to Try. While we pause on directing to you restaurants across the city for the weekend and as the industry continues to react to significant changes brought about by the novel coronavirus outbreak, each Friday afternoon, for the time being, we’ll bring you recipes from some of London’s best chefs and restaurants to try at the weekend instead.

And, we’re going to theme them. This week, it’s potatoes, with ideas from Quality Wines’ Nick Bramham, Island Social Club’s Marie Mitchell, Core’s Clare Smyth, Ikoyi’s Jeremy Chan, and a special appearance from Ixta Belfrage and Yotam Ottolenghi.

If you like them, let us know, and share with a friend. And take care.

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Greek style lemon and olive oil roast potatoes
by Nick Bramham, Quality Wines

The lemon and oregano infused liquor gradually reduces around the potatoes as they bake in the oven, the oil slicked surface gently crisping, chasing the water line as it recedes and intensifies in flavour. In less than an hour the result is a potato that’s half fudgy, half roast, totally transportive to The Peloponnese and best enjoyed with grilled fish and tzatziki or, let’s face it, straight out of the pan.

Note: if you’re feeling fancy you can use chicken stock instead of water.

A couple of large waxy potatoes peeled and cut Sunday roast style
100ml extra virgin olive oil
Zest & juice of 1 lemon
4 garlic cloves (skin on, bashed)
1 tsp dry oregano (preferably Greek)
Salt & pepper

Preheat your oven to 200c.

Place the potatoes in whatever baking tray/casserole dish/frying pan/cake tin best accommodates them - they want to be relatively snug, huddled together.

Add the rest of the ingredients and toss the potatoes around as though marinading them.

Just about cover with cold water.

Bake in the oven until all the water has reduced, probably 30-45 minutes.

Rest for 15 minutes (or as long as you can bare waiting)

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Chicken and Potato Curry
by Marie Mitchell, Island Social Club

500g chicken pieces chopped into pieces - not size specific, so you can leave them whole if you’re not able to cut them ( I like thighs but we’re not fussy in these times and don’t be scared of bones)

2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2-300g potatoes, diced
1 scotch bonnet, whole (this adds the sweetness of the pepper but not so much spice, if you want it hotter, add some chopped scotch bonnet when marinating the chicken)
1/2 a tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 tsp turmeric
2 tsp ground black pepper, plus more to taste
2 tsp curry powder (I’m a lover of Betapac but you can use any)
2 tsp salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp olive oil
500g chicken stock
Veg oil for browning (rapeseed is usually my jam)

Marinate the chicken overnight with one of the onions, two cloves garlic and spices — except the salt, make sure it’s well mixed and all the chicken is coated.

You’ll need to take the chicken out around half an hour before you plan to cook it, to bring it back to room temperature. You can now add the salt and mix through. In the meantime you can prepare the potatoes. I like to keep the skin on for additional fibre and to minimise waste but give them a good wash. If you prefer skin off, peel and dice.

Use a wide bottom pan and heat the veg oil, make sure the oil is covering the base of the pan but don’t overdo it as you don’t want the curry to be too oily. Brown the chicken until it has all been evenly browned and set aside.

Sweat the extra onion until softened (around 5-10 minutes) and add the last two cloves of chopped garlic for the last minute. Add the chicken back to the pan and cover with chicken stock. Add in potatoes and scotch bonnet, pop the lid on and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer. You’ll cook for around 40 minutes to an hour or until the chicken is cooked, don’t worry about the potatoes softening, it helps to thicken the gravy a little. Add in chickpeas for the last 10 minutes of cooking.

Regularly check to see if you need to add additional salt or pepper, season to taste.

Voila!

Serve with rice, roti or naan bread, the choice is yours!

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Spiced Roast Potatoes and Chicken Tarragon Gravy
by Jeremy Chan, Ikoyi

Spiced roast potatoes with chicken and tarragon gravy

Jeremy Chan

500g Small Charlotte Potatoes
15g Curry Powder
3g Black Pepper
5g Smoked Paprika
100g Butter
30g Rapeseed Oil
500g Chicken Wings
1kg Chicken Stock
1 bunch Tarragon
30g Wholegrain mustard
1 x Red Onion
1 bunch of chives

I love using meat sauces to accompany a vegetable dish. First slice the potatoes in half and then rinse under running water. Simmer in salted water for 10 to 15mins two parboil, but not for too long for in this recipe you don’t want the potatoes to be too crispy, we are going for a chewy result. Drain the potatoes and allow to cool.

To make the jus, roast the chicken wings in a deep based pot with 50g of the butter until very golden. Deglaze with the chicken stock and scrape up the bits then simmer the stock for two hours. Strain through muslin then reduce until the jus coats the back of a spoon, there should be around 200g left. Add the tarragon and leave the pot in a warm place to infuse with a lid while you finish the potatoes.

Heat a skillet and add the 50g of butter and rapeseed oil. Add the potatoes and keep them on the heat until they begin to colour. Place in a pre-heated oven set to 190C to continue cooking the potatoes for 30 to 40 mins. Add the chopped red onion and spices for the last 10 mins of cooking. Season well.

Put the skillet back on the hob and add the chicken jus. Allow to coat potatoes and reduce to a sticky glaze. The potatoes will be chewy, sticky and very delicious. Finish with a bunch of finely sliced chives.

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Potato and roe, dulse beurre blanc, herring and trout roe
by Clare Smyth, Core by Clare Smyth

Potato and roe, dulse beurre blanc, herring and trout roe

Core by Clare Smyth [Official Photo]

Prep time: 30 minutes Cook time: 1 hour
Serves 4

POTATO
4 Charlotte potatoes, medium, 8-9cm length
100g Salted Kombu
100g Unsalted butter
100g Dulse, finely chopped

1. Cook the potatoes, kombu and butter sous-vide at 100°C for 60 minutes.
2. Once chilled, remove the potatoes, set the butter cooking mixture aside.
3. Top and tail the potato and return to the butter.
4. Chop the salted kombu and reserve.

POTATO CHIPS
4 Charlotte potatoes, small
Salt: (amount 2% total potato weight)
Salt, to taste
Vinegar powder from MSK, to taste

1. Slice the potatoes 2mm thick.
2. Add 2% salt of the total weight of potato.
3. Vacuum pack and leave for 24 hours to ferment.
4. Remove from the bag and drain off. Deep fry until golden brown.
5. Season with salt and vinegar powder.

VINEGAR REDUCTION
500g White wine
500g White wine vinegar
200g Shallots
20g Garlic, cloves
4g White peppercorns
4g Thyme

1. Add all ingredients to a saucepan. Reduce by half.
2. Once reduced strain ingredients and keep vinegar reduction to one side.

BEURRE BLANC SAUCE
50g Vinegar reduction
50g Double cream
250g Butter
10ml Lemon juice
Reserved kombu
Reserved dulse
Salt, to taste

1. In a saucepan reduce the vinegar reduction to a light syrup.
2. Add the double cream and bring to the boil.
3. Add the butter in quarters to the pan. Mixing between each quarter added.
4. Add the salted kombu and dulse.
5. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt.

FISH ROE MIX
60g Trout eggs
60g Smoked Herring eggs
10g Chives, chopped

1. In a bowl add the Trout and Smoked Herring eggs with the chives. Use a maurice to gently mix everything.
2. Reserve in the fridge until needed.

TO ASSEMBLE
4 Red Vein sorrel
4 Sheep sorrel
4 Butterfly sorrel
4 Sorrel flower
4 Rocket flower
4 Wild Rocket
4 Chive tips

1. Reheat the potato in the reserved cooking butter.
2. Drain. Cover the top of the potato with the fish roe mix.
3. Add the potato crisps, standing on top of the potato.
4. Place all the herbs standing up on the potato.
5. Serve the sauce on the side.

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Spicy roast potatoes with tahini and soy
by Ixta Belfrage and Yotam Ottolenghi

Spicy roast potatoes with tahini and soy

Ixta Belfrage

900g roasting potatoes, skin left on and cut into 2½-3cm squares
50g rose harissa
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 tbsp olive oil
1½ tbsp chives, finely chopped
1½ tbsp black or white sesame seeds, preferably a mixture of both, well toasted
Salt and black pepper

Tahini and soy sauce
60g tahini (mix very well before using, to combine the solids and fat)
2 tbsp soy sauce
1½ tbsp mirin
1½ tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp water

Preheat the (fan) oven to 240C.

In a large bowl, mix the first four ingredients with ¾ teaspoon of salt and a generous grind of pepper until well combined. Transfer to a large parchment-lined tray spread out as much as possible, cover tightly with foil and roast for 15 minutes.

Remove the foil, reduce the heat to 200C and roast for another 25 minutes uncovered, stirring halfway through until the potatoes are cooked through and nicely browned.

While the potatoes are roasting, whisk all the ingredients for the sauce together until smooth.

Transfer the potatoes to a large, shallow serving bowl and drizzle over the sauce. Finish with the chives and sesame seeds and serve.

This recipe was previously published in the Guardian.

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