In the food world, there is much debate over the perfect crispy roast potatoes, the silkiest, airiest mash, the creamiest gratin. I get it: A good mash can make our knees weak and crispy potatoes never fail to bring satisfaction. For much of my formative years, however, the years when I gleefully lived under the culinary sovereignty of my mother’s cooking, my idea of the perfect potatoes was very different. I lived for stir-fried potatoes.
In Chinese cuisine potatoes occupy a very different role on the plate. They are generally cooked as a savory vegetable dish to be eaten with rice. My mother’s potatoes were stir-fried with chiles and green peppers, and sometimes she would pour beaten eggs over the top to make an omelet. There were other dishes too: potatoes sliced into bite-size chunks and tossed with vegetables and pork, smothered in brown gravy.
In many ways understanding the joy of stir-fried potatoes asks us to rethink everything we previously considered necessary when cooking and eating these beloved tubers. Stir-fried potatoes won’t be crispy nor completely tender, but they will be ready in mere minutes and delicious in their own right.
For this recipe, as with all stir-fry dishes, preparation is key. It’s imperative to slice the potatoes as uniformly as possible in order to ensure even cooking. I write this, but, admittedly, I am notorious for my haphazard slicing skills. Lucky for me I don’t mind an undercooked vegetable (I tell myself it adds texture). Yet even with my undisciplined knife skills, I resist a mandoline or a food processor and julienne by hand. It’s not the quickest or most consistent method, but it’s how my mother prepared her potatoes and I cannot resist the allure of tradition and ritual.
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November 10, 2021 at 02:43AM
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This Chinese Potato Stir Fry Proves That Al Dente Potatoes Are Delicious - Bon Appetit
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